Visiting Perito Moreno Glacier

Just like Iguazu, the Perito Moreno Glacier is one of those places you have to visit. So we packed ourselves up, sadly waved goodbye to Omar and our new friends at Kaweskar Hostel and left Chile. Again. But this time we weren't alone standing in the immigration queue for an hour. Our two Torres del Paine walking buddies were headed to El Calafate and Perito Moreno as well.

Given our group size (wow...four people!) we decided to rent a car for the following day – no mean feat on a Sunday – to check out both the glacier and the supposedly 'off the beaten track' Lago Roca.

Well, the car rental turned out to be a pretty good idea. Despite starting out as a blustery but sunny day in El Calafate, as we covered the 80km to Perito Moreno the clouds grew thicker and turned a more threatening shade of grey and the light rain turned into a downpour. So we saw almost nothing of the allegedly spectacular scenery on the drive along Lago Argentino.

 The first sighting of Perito Moreno – still from the drive - lifted our spirits somewhat, knowing that we would at least be able to see the glacier despite the fog and rain. And what a view. That first glimpse of blue ice always takes my breath away!

But really there's no way to miss it. With a 5 kilometre wide terminal face and rising an average of 74m out of Lago Argentino even bad weather can't obscure it. On top of that, it's amazingly accessible with walkways on the bank of the lake that feel like you're right up against it, even though at that size there is no way to appreciate how massive it actually is.

Apart from it's beauty, Perito Moreno is remarkable for the fact that huge chunks of ice regularly calve off the terminal face so it's as much an auditory experience as a visual one.

We stood in the rain until our waterproof jackets were soaked...although still waterproof, waiting for the ice drama to unfold.

From time to time we'd hear the enormous rumble that sounded like thunder and would desperately scan the glacier to see the pieces of ice slide into the lake. And just like at Glacier Grey they seemed really small!

Sodden, we returned to the car and headed for Lago Roca. At that point the weather hadn't improved nor did it for the rest of the afternoon, so the view of what seemed like a very pretty area was a bit patchy, but at least we were warm and dry.

What we did see, were enormous looking birds of prey on the side of the road that didn't mind the least bit being photographed.

The lake itself was rather unimpressive in the grey drizzle, so we entertained ourselves while stretching our legs by jumping in the puddles in an attempt to spraying mud at everyone else. Okay, only some of us did that! And then on the way out we nearly got the car bogged! It took four great minds all offering opinions on how to get up the hill and some skilful driving.

Finally we returned to El Calafate and would you believe that there the sun was still shining!