Sea Kayaking: A New Adventure Begins

It’s been a while. And I’m sure you’ve been worried that perhaps we’ve succumbed to the temptation to stay home. That during the past few months of silence we’ve only been renovating, meditating and watching the grass grow.

You have been thinking about us haven’t you?

Well, actually we have been watching the grass grow because our lawn mower is broken. I have also been meditating, mostly on how to do the crane yoga arm balance and a chin up. But not at the same time. And yes, we have also been renovating: we have a driveway.

Perhaps the last bit has been the most exciting, as we’ll never get bogged in our own driveway again. Really, the first time we got stuck, with mud splattered all over the car, it was funny.

When a cement truck got bogged in the same spot a couple of weeks later and needed a second truck it get him out it was a hoot. Plus, while he waited for his mate to come get him out, the cement truck driver showed us how to finish our concrete slab properly. Very helpful.

But when we managed to get two vehicles stuck on the same night, two days before we left on our three and a half month trip, the joke had worn thin.

But I digress and not simply to distract you from the fact that it looks like we haven’t done anything in over two months. Actually, since the end of winter we have been busy scheming and planning new adventures, this time in sea kayaks. We’ve had a double boat for a long time now - actually it was our very first joint purchase - but it wasn’t suited for the ocean, which we’ve always wanted to explore.

So after years of putting off doing anything about it, we finally bought to two single Wilderness Systems Tempest 170’s. Initially we’d planned to go with another double, since our first kayak had never lived up to its reputation of being a divorce boat. Arguably that could be because we bought it well before we were married, but in any case the reason for buying two singles over a double boiled down to safety. If one of us fell out, it would be easier to do an assisted rescue than having two swimmers and a double kayak full of water.

Kayaking 101
Next up, I decided we needed some lessons. When we’d first bought the double we’d done pretty much what everyone else does when they start kayaking, namely jump into the boat, paddle a bit and call yourself proficient. But as with everything else in life, you don’t know what you don’t know until someone more qualified than you points out that you know nothing.

So despite kayaking for around 9 years we had to start at the very beginning of kayaking 101: learning to do the basic stroke properly. Which is to say that the lesson was a huge success. The highlight was probably when we tipped the kayak over, ending up hanging in the water up side down and calmly tapping the hull three times with our hands before getting out.

Where is my kayaking going!?!
A few weeks later, now knowing that we had an awful lot to learn, we took delivery of our brand new boats.

The first paddle was scheduled for The Spit at the Gold Coast and unfortunately my kayak and I did not bond very well.

When we had trailed a few kayaks before buying, the Tempest 170 had handled beautifully and we’d both decided pretty quickly that this was the boat for both of us. There was just one little catch: the steering system. There are two types in kayaks; a rudder or a skeg and it’s an issue that seems to divide kayakers all around the world almost to the extent of religion or politics (or maybe that's just internet forums for you!). Technically neither is actually for steering though. They are used to counter weathercocking, which is a boat's natural tendency to turn into the wind. 

The way I see it is that anyone can paddle a kayak with a rudder. Hey we did for 9 years in complete oblivion of the fact that there are other ways to make a kayak go the way you want it to! Skegs on the other hand require actual paddling technique. And while the Tempest is really awesome anyway, I couldn't help but relish the "little" challenge thrown in by way of mastering skeg boat handling. Apparently, stupid challenges are right up my alley. Just ask Jeff about cycling over the Crown Range in New Zealand.

Unfortunately, on our first outing, skill was something I was clearly lacking. While the natural-at-all-things-physical mastered the art of going in a straight line, all I could do was go left, regardless of the wind or current and I hadn’t even discussed politics with my kayak yet!

Mind you, tracking in a straight line didn’t manage to save Jeff from being soaked by a jet skier in the middle of the channel. Thanks Gold Coast.

Great Summer Paddles Ahead
Luckily the following day, I managed to sort my left veer out – in the kayak not politics – in a much calmer environment and it’s been more or less smooth paddling since.

We had another lesson in perfect conditions at Caloundra, probably spending more time in the water than in the kayaks while attempting to surf the waves into shore.

Yeah, I know those waves look small....

And with more perfect conditions, we did a quick early morning paddle from Woody Point up to Redcliffe.

See the conditions were really calm to get this rare on water photo. Interestingly, non waterproof cameras and water don't mix. 

You know, with so many islands to explore in Moreton Bay, I doubt our grass will get mowed at all this summer!

Source: Google Maps

Cooloola Great Walk: Part Two

Dutgee to Brahminy
On the fourth morning heavy dew dampened our tent, as mist sat in the valley before the sun rose.

With the Cooloola Sandpatch crossing ahead of us that day, we wanted to set of early to avoid being ‘in the desert’ at midday, even though it was a shame to leave such a pretty spot. 

It's delicious. But that's not how you make porridge!

By the time we got to the sandpatch after winding our way along the Noosa River and then joining the track up the hill, it was almost lunchtime and the sun was pretty fierce. After glimpses of the view through the vegetation on the way up, we got a stunning panorama across Cooloola. Dumping our packs on the sand we went for an exploratory wander to look at the view across Lake Cootharaba.

After climbing up over the sandy ridge we finally saw the ocean again.

Despite the warnings regarding navigating through ‘the dessert’ we had no trouble although at times I wondered if I’d lost my marbles anyway. In the very middle of this exposed, harsh environment, we heard the constant call of whipbirds, which are normally a rainforest species. Of course they were coming from the forest just on the other side, but it still seemed a little surreal.

"We are going...thadaway"

The name ‘Rainbow Beach’ comes from the coloured sands of the towering sand dunes near the town and on the ocean side the sand patch was pretty mix of coloured streaks.

Footprints in the sand

We'd already met a few groups along the walk, who had been intrigued by the fact we were walking North to South rather than the South-North way the trail was written. The very technical reason for this was that by the time we'd booked the campsites, a walking group had already filled all the spots on the days we were after. So grudgingly we booked in the other direction, while I worried that all the great views would probably be at our back. A couple of days in we crossed paths with the walking group and explained they were the reason we were going about the walk backwards. While apologising, they also pointed out that we would have fewer up hill stretches. And how right they were. The sandpatch crossing was all downhill, our backs to the sun and the ocean ahead. We really appreciated this when at the bottom of the sandpatch, we met two men, who were just about to start their way up the sand.  

Later that day, we finally got the views that had initially tempted us to do that walk in first place. From the ridge we could see all the way from Double Island Point to Noosa.

Where we came from.

Where we are going

A few days earlier, we’d met a group who’d managed to spot whales from that spot, so we waited for a while, but with no luck.

'Here looks like a good spot'

The final nights campsite was in spectacular spot, with 180 degree views spanning from the ocean to the lake. We thought it would be all ours, until a couple of guys turned up just before sunset. Dropping their packs on the benches, they immediately set about the task of drinking beer they’d carried all the way up the hill with them.

After looking at the stars that evening, we left them still on the benches while we went to our tent. The next morning the heavy dew had saturated their sleeping bags, while they had slept under the stars. It turns out they didn’t have a tent with them. At least they got a great view of the mist covering the lake as the sun came up.

Brahminy to Tewantin
From our lovely perch up on the hill, we started to descend down to the beach and towards Noosa on the last day. Just like the previous couple of days we were still surrounded by spring flowers, but this time there was also a great view.

 At the last lookout, before the rapid descent we marvelled at the massive stretch of water all around and how close they were to each other.

Lake Cootharaba

Noosa in the distance

The previous day I’d been very excited to spot a red-belly black that had slithered off the trail as we approached. On the last day, we got an even better view. This time, the snake didn’t even move despite the fact I’d stepped less than half a metre from its tail. Judging it to be an Eastern Brown Snake – a very aggressive variety and also the second most venomous snake in the world – we stood looking straight into its reptilian eyes. Head raised, it fixed us with an unblinking stare. We waited, staring at each other until finally it relented and slithered out of our way.

A few hours later, we finally stepped onto the beach, this time so close to Noosa I could almost taste the gelato that awaited us there. After just a kilometre on the sand, the track headed inland again to end of the trail and the bus stop.

Cooloola Great Walk: Part I

Standing next to our backpacks waiting for the bus felt the same. Just like always, I wondered if we were at the right stop, at the right time, on the right day. As usual we were and as we took our seats towards the back of the bus, we could hear that familiar mix of foreign languages.

As expected, moments after pulling our packs from the luggage compartment we were approached by a couple of people from the local backpackers asking if we had accommodation for the night. And just like always, we said we did.

So the script was identical to the one we’d been through dozens of times in Argentina and Chile, but we were much, much closer to home. And yet even the familiar view of gum trees and golden grass looked different from the long distance bus.

I know what the locals sitting on nearby park benches were thinking - Stupid tourist! Look at her posing with that huge cheesy grin on her face in front of a gigantic kangaroo!

The 5-day Cooloola Great Walk is an 88km trail running from Noosa to Rainbow Beach (or the other way around) and involves car shuttling, which is why we were on a bus having public transport flashbacks (and pretending we were on a grand, many month adventure instead of making the most of a long, long weekend). Incidentally we’d always wondered if employees from backpacker’s places stood around like vultures waiting to accost weary bus travellers and offer cheap accommodation in Australia. Given that we got our answer, I would say the Greyhound experience was definitely rewarding!

Well that and we got to the start of the trail. Though funnily enough, as soon as we put our packs on, it felt like no time had passed at all since the last time we’d done this. No wait, it actually hurt a lot more than I remember which clearly shows I’ve gone soft in the last few months!

Rainbow Beach to Kauri Walker’s Camp
Given the late start and still short winter days, the first days mission was to get to camp before sunset. At the first sand patch not far from the trailhead, a woman took one look at the size of our packs and complimented us on our obviously superior fitness. So as a display of said strength we charged across the sand, muttering to each other that snow was easier to walk in and we didn’t really stop to take in the ocean views. In any case, we’d be looking at them for 5 days straight, right?

Well after 10 or so kilometres of forest, we reached a lovely little lake that reflected the afternoon light on it’s still waters. In the trees above the white cockatoos were squawking away as their black counterparts could be heard somewhere in the distance. Unfortunately, with the sun heading for the horizon, we couldn’t stay.

Not long after we heard the sound of an engine. Knowing we needed to cross a road before reaching camp, I was pretty excited thinking we were close. Except the engines turned out to be mounted on motorbikes and instead of being on the road, they ripped through the hiking trail. If they didn’t expect to see any hikers that weekend, they were in for a shock since there was someone on each leg of the hike, walking north to south. Except us, we’re rebels and walked it the other way around and for the better!

Anyway, after a bit of a climb, it was already twilight when we reached our campsite deep in the rainforest where another group where already chowing down on fine smelling dinner and dreaming about their pub meal the following day at Rainbow Beach. Lucky for us steak and wine were far from our minds since we'd carried smoked chicken for that night's dinner.

Kauri to Litoria
Leaving Rainbow Beach a few people had told us (okay they burst out laughing that we were going to camp before informing us) that rain was on the way and it came during the night. But by the following morning the skies looked clear, so we laid all our gear out on a bench ready to re-pack our bags. Moments later it started to pour down and we rushed into the only roofed spot in the campground – the toilet. But lucky for us the new pit toilet designs don’t smell much. Cooking breakfast while trying to prop the door open for some ventilation, I wondered if I’d cursed us when I wrote that we’d never had rain on a multi-day walk before.

Luckily the rain came down heavy and hard, but soon moved on and stayed away for the rest of the walk.

That day we didn’t see the ocean. In fact we didn’t see all that much except for lots of conveniently placed logs to rest our packs on when we needed a break.

Evidence of the Cooloola's past logging history.

After 20km walk through the rain forest we were relieved to get to the campsite on the ridge around sunset.

Litoria to Dutgee
By the third morning we were hoping for a bit of change of scenery. Luckily right from the outset we were in wallum scrub full of blooming flowers, grass trees and gums.

From the ridgeline we soon started to see the floodplain of the Noosa River that during the summer had overflowed and closed the whole area.

Nearer the river the ground was still a bit boggy even though the grassland seemed dry.

A little further along, the track almost disappeared in a sea of yellow flowered shrubs and the sound of buzzing bees filled the air.

It turned out to be a short walking day and we spent a lazy afternoon at one of the nicest campsites of the trail. It was located on the bank of the river, shaded with huge gums and surrounded by flowers.

First Milestones: Camping at Imbil State Forest

Forget the usual childhood milestones like starting solids or learning to crawl or even baby's first word. Really, they're pretty average. I mean appropriate childhood development aside, aren't there more exciting milestones to mention than a first solid poo? What about the first hike or the first camping trip?

I've always proudly boasted that I've been camping since before I could even walk, which in itself is an achievement since I started that activity pretty early too. If you'd asked I would have said that this proud moment in my life took place when I was just 6 months old.

Unfortunately I recently did the maths, to discover that I was probably a little older. While everyone may think their parents are a little crazy, I don't think mine would have taken their baby camping in the dead of winter. In fact, I'm disappointed to say that walking probably came first.

Well at least now one member of the family can boast to going camping before, most of the usual mobility milestones. Our niece Ava was undoubtedly excited all week about spending her first night under coated polyester. 

Refreshed after a nice two hour nap on the way up to Kenilworth, she greeted us and the gum trees with big smiles before needing to eat. Post morning tea-time entertainment was watching us struggle to set up our big tent - the Taj Mahal - before piling out immense amounts of camping gear out of the car for our one night away. And people say kids need a lot of stuff!

Next on the baby schedule (between a nappy change and lunch) was a walk through the rainforest. From the comfort of the baby backpack hoisted on her tall dad's shoulders she had a great view of sunshine filtering through the tall palm trees. Even though it was cool, the air in the rainforest was heavy and humid.

While napping in her pram after lunch, she went for another walk, this time up Sunday Creek Road past trees that seemed full of bellbirds. It was quite a climb up the winding road to the lookout and her dad and uncle took turns pushing the stroller along the dirt road. Just in time she woke to look at the view into the valley which was awash with sunlight.

As the sun set and it got cool, the benefit of her immobility became clear. Rugged up in a fleecy jumpsuit and happy to regularly change her vantage point, her warm snuggles kept everyone warm while her aunt battled to get the campfire going.

After just a couple of moans and groans through the night, she was awake and ready for action at 6am. According to Australian lore, seeing a black cockatoo is supposed to signify the number of days until rain. The day before they were everywhere in the campsite, which should have meant rain was far off. But apparently either the cockatoos or us got it wrong, as that morning it started to drizzle.

While we tried to feed her breakfast in the tent, Ava looked exactly like every camper does when it starts to rain - bored and miserable. She clearly much preferred to be outside with the bush turkeys. Luckily it didn't last long so she still got to go hunting for two caches and watch all the kids playing in the park at Kenilworth while we ate ice cream and bought yoghurt from the cheese factory. After good nap on the way home, she was in great mood. In fact, I think she enjoyed the trip so much, 'camping' just might be her first word!

 How old were you when you first went camping? Do you remember it? Had any child related camping disasters?

A European Christmas

There's only so much you can fit into a backpack and after travelling for two weeks with someone, you get to know the wearable contents of their pack pretty well. So as we casually scanned the people waiting outside of the 'arrivals' gate at Frankfurt airport, we almost didn't recognise Sebastian who'd arrived the previous day.

A snow storm was predicted for the following day, so the airport authorities had set out temporary beds in preparation for stranded passengers.

 Europe had been an after thought really. Our return flights either required a trip home via the US or Europe and so we'd decided to spend a white Christmas with my family in Poland. But along the way we'd made new friends who invited us to visit 'next time we were in Germany'. And so on a snowy afternoon in December we were welcomed back to Europe for one of the friendliest months ever.

Heidelberg couldn't have been more pretty that first afternoon we spent walking around while waiting for my cousin and her partner to finish work. After traipsing the broken footpaths and deteriorating buildings of Chile and Argentina, Heidelberg seemed like a perfect fairy tale town. With a soft layer of fresh snow on the ground the locals seemed to be enjoying the Christmas lights and markets almost as much as we were.

After two days of wandering the streets, staying up far too late and hanging out in Heidelberg we headed south to Tübingen where we did pretty much the same.

But in Tübingen, bum sliding was also involved. This time, we tried plastic bags filled with snow while the locals with real sleds looked on with pity. Compared to our attempts just on jackets, this method was really fast. But added speed made it virtually uncontrollable and by the bottom of the hill, the plastic bags had usually ripped open caking us in snow. Add a few rolls in there before we'd stop and there was snow...everywhere. 

On route to Poland, we swung by Prague to compare Christmas markets and mulled wine.

And then did the same in Krakow the following morning.

Jeff's first white Christmas with my Polish family was a blur of divine food, relatives, hot chocolate in our favourite cafe, skiing right in town, markets and a tense wait for the birth of our niece or nephew back home.

The New Year was rung in with family friends on the snowy top of a hill in the Gorce mountain range.

During the few days we spent with them, we tried exploring in the nearby national park, but knee deep snow prevented us from going very far. So bum sliding it was, this time on a flying saucer type sled which was by far the most successful method.

During the couple of days we'd spent in Gorce, we'd seen horses pulling sleds on the road in front of the house. I'd always dreamed of dashing through the snow on a one horse open sleigh and on the first day of this year, my dream came true thanks to our friends.

With one week left of our trip, we returned to Germany to visit friends, soak up just a touch of history and enjoy our last days of a white winter.

Home, it turns out, would greet us with a flood that Brisbane was never supposed to have.

The river in Frankfurt had also busted it's banks that day

So that's finally it - the whole grand 3.5 month adventure. I must confess I've actually enjoyed blogging more since we've been back than on the road and so I plan to post new updates even when our next travels take us much, much closer to home. And as always, we're dreaming of the next adventure.