Greater Buenos Aires

Of course, Buenos Aires isn't all just hustle and bustle if you know where to look. And if you have a local (and most excellent) guide like we did, you know where to go.

A fact I didn't know about Buenos Aires until the words 'Capital Federal' were thrown at me is that the city itself has very defined limits, beyond which are other towns. Once upon a time, these were actually towns with their own cathedrals and squares, but these days it's all just sprawl so it's hard to know where one ends and the other begins. Unless of course you have someone to point out when you leave 'Capital Federal' – Buenos Aires proper – and enter the next district.

When we left Buenos Aires and headed north along the slower road we passed through a few of the towns, but it was already dark. A few days later we returned to San Isidro and wandered its pretty cobblestone streets, while dreaming about buying one of the mansions and doing it up.

Another beautiful town of Greater Buenos Aires is Tigre, set on the Parana Delta. Apart from coming here to get delicious ice cream from Via Toscana (Bariloche Dulce de Leche flavour is amazing) sunny weekends see crowds wandering along the river.

Leaving from the Puerto de Frutos, we went for a sail through the Parana Delta. The whole area reminded me of the canals in Holland. There were brightly coloured weekenders surrounded by a perfect green lawn and large shady trees that looked like an ideal place to spend a lazy afternoon. Other buildings along the river were more upscale, including a golf club, restaurants and lodges.

Several times we were passed by the supermarket boats that deliver food to the houses along the delta.

Then, as we rounded a bend in the river, we saw Buenos Aires far in the distance.