Mr Hugo

That's all I would need to say if you were in the know. But unless you've been to Mendoza in the last five years you're probably not. Even our Lonely Planet copy of 'Argentina' isn't. So let me explain.

Mr Hugo rents bicycles to anyone wishing to go head to head with Argentinian drivers and cycle between the wineries around Mendoza. His business has grown through word of mouth and is hugely popular with the backpacker crowd. And the other bicycle hire places are at a loss about what to do. Or so I'm told.

We'd never heard of 'Mr Hugo', before we were approached while on the bus to Maipu. We'd already walked from town to the 'not to be missed' Escorihuela Bodega, which the tourist information centre had failed to mention was closed due to renovations.

On the bus, we discovered the machine only took coins, which are rare as hens teeth, and we thought he would kick us off. Instead a fellow passenger got up, swiped his card twice and gave us the tickets. We were really touched by his kindness.

So when we were handed a 'Mr Hugo' brochure and offered to be walked to the hire shop we welcomed the suggestion. Just down the road a slightly battered gate led into a shady courtyard where lots of shiny bikes awaited. Within moments, Mr Hugo greeted us warmly, offered us a seat and with a big smile produced a jug of wine.

Soon after, we were happily wobbling our way down a tree lined country road to the first of the stops in the area.

 Inside a pretty little gate, 20 or so bikes stood lined up under a lean-to roof, many bearing the 'Mr Hugo' decal. In the little building, a group was already tasting the home made vinegars, olive oil, salsas, chocolate and liqueurs. Each sample produced satisfied nods and happy yums.

But the most exciting thing to taste was the absinthe. The pale green liquid was poured into shot glasses and a teaspoon of sugar dipped in. This was then lit until the flame caramelised the sugar which was then stirred back through. At 75% alcohol it was pretty strong, but I loved the taste.

The next winery included a museum where there was supposed to be a tour. Unfortunately none of the staff seemed interested, so we wandered around the displays which included wine making apparatus from pre-colonial times. After a quick sip of very young and rather unimpressive Malbec we retreated between the giant oak barrels that lined to entrance.

A little further down the road was a artisan beer garden. After turning and winding our way down the road following the signs we found a shack at the end of a gravel road. Around it were old couches decked out in colourful woven fabrics and cable drums as tables. The staff seemed to be having such a good time hanging out together, no one gave us more than a glance when we turned up.

Perhaps they were supposed to offer tastings, but in our case we were simply handed a menu where we could buy three different types of local made beer by the half litre. Jeff had a Melena de Leon, while we cracked roasted peanuts and chilled out in the shade.

The final winery that we had any hope of making it to, turned out the be a gem. Vina el Cerno, a family owned and run place, our host was brimming with enthusiasm which he happily shared with us. We tasted an old tempranillo and the local special, a delicious Malbec.

We had spent the afternoon cycling alone, but as we were leaving we found the rest of the group also heading back to Mr Hugo. In total about 15 foreigners on bicycles rode onto the main road headed for Maipu as the sun started to dip below the mountains on the horizon.

Apparently the local police were well prepared for the situation, with two motorbikes waiting to escort us all the way home. Stopping most vehicles from passing us on the busy road, they waited to make sure each cyclist turned safely into Mr Hugo's gate. With bikes parked for the evening, a cheerful Mr Hugo greeted us with jugs of wine which flowed freely until the last bus headed for Mendoza was about to leave.

Waiting at the bus stop, we watched as Mr Hugo came riding down the road. He stopped to check that we all had change and with another round of hearty hugs and kisses wished us all the best. I guess that's why he's so popular.

Next Stop: The Moon